Insulation & Draft-proofing

Year-round comfort for your home

Insulation acts as a barrier to heat flow and is essential for keeping your home warm in winter and cool in summer. A well-insulated home provides year-round comfort, cutting cooling and heating bills, and reducing greenhouse gas emissions.

Most houses can add insulation to the ceilings, walls and floor to make them more comfortable and save on your energy bills.

Diagram showing winter heat loss and summer heat gain
Location National Building Code minimum R-value Cost-effective (approx) R-value
Roof / ceiling 4.1 to 5.1 6.0
External wall 2.8 3.0
Suspended floor 2.0 2.5

Thermal performance

An insulation material’s ability to resist heat flow is measured by its R-value. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation.

Several factors determine the R-value, including the material type, thickness, and density.

Generally, it is good idea to go beyond the minimum recommended levels, however cost and practicality are important considerations. For reference, typical R-values for the Central Coast are shown in the table. 

Insulation materials

Insulation products come in two main types: bulk and reflective, which are sometimes combined.

  • Bulk insulation products include materials such as semi-rigid batts and rolls, rigid boards or loose fill materials.
  • Reflective insulation is usually shiny aluminium foil bonded to paper or plastic and is available as sheets (sarking), concertina-type batts and multi-cell batts.
  • Combined bulk and reflective insulation. Examples include foil-faced boards, reflective foil-faced blankets and foil-backed batts.

All insulation sold in Australia must display the relevant R-value according to AS/NZS 4859 tested to AS1530 to determine their level of combustibility.

There is a wide range of insulation materials commonly available. These include:

  • glass wool (often made from recycled materials)
  • wool
  • cellulose fibre loose fill (often made from recycled paper fibres)
  • polyester (often made from recycled materials)
  • polystyrene, expanded (EPS) or extruded (XPS)
  • polyisocyanurate (PIR)
  • polyurethane (PUR)

Selecting the right insulation material and type for the job is important. Your Home website provides good information on the different types of insulation materials and how to use them.

In considering which insulation material to use, it is worth considering:

  • Do I need the insulation to be self-supporting (e.g. for a wall)?
  • Is this for DIY or will it be installed by a professional?
  • Are there space restrictions that will limit the thickness of insulation that can be used?
  • Is there a danger of moisture and/or vermin?
  • Am I sensitive or allergic to certain materials?
  • Do I want to use recycled materials?
Diagram showing safe installation of ceiling lights

Installing insulation

Some types of insulation should be installed by a professional, while some you can do yourself.

DIY works best for accessible roof spaces, where:

  • You have a standard pitched roof
  • Joists are visible and easy to move between
  • There are no major wiring complications

In all cases:

  • Insulation should be installed carefully following the manufacturer’s instructions to minimise the risk of condensation or fire.
  • Avoid gaps in all types of insulation. Even a small gap can greatly reduce the insulating value.
  • For safety reasons, minimum manufacturer’s specified clearances must be left around hot objects, such as flues from fires, recessed halogen downlights and their transformers.

Certain materials and installation methods must be handled by professionals due to chemical complexities, specialised equipment requirements, and significant safety risks.  These include:

  • Spray Foam Insulation
  • Blown-In / Loose-Fill Insulation
  • Reflective Foil Insulation
  • Retrofit Wall Insulation

If you wish to get a ‘no obligation’ quotation for insulation, use the link provided to find a reputable local installer.

Insulation FAQs

Almost all existing houses can be better insulated, however some jobs are more complex and expensive than other. We suggest that you get an expert opinion from our partner installer who can tell you what is possible and give you a ‘no obligation’ quote.

Spring and Autumn are ideal times to install insulation, as roof spaces are not too hot and installation companies are most available.

Many insulation materials compress over time and become less effective, so it is worth ‘topping up’ ceiling insulation periodically – say every 5-8 years. Also, check that the insulation in the attic has not been moved, creating gaps that allow heat transfer. This often occurs as things are stored or moved within the attic space, or if new cables, lights or air conditioning has been installed in your house.

Note that for safety reasons, minimum manufacturer’s specified clearances must be left around hot objects, such as flues from fires, recessed halogen downlights and their transformers.

Usually it is possible to add to existing layers of insulation, so long as there is adequate space to allow for ventilation and taking care to follow the product specifications, to minimise the risk of condensation or fire.

If covering a layer of batts or rolls, it is a good idea to place the new insulation at 90o to the existing later to minimise air gaps.

This can happen if you are using your heating or cooling for longer or if your electricity or gas tariffs have increased. For example, the weather may be warmer or cooler compared to a previous period or you may be keeping your home at a different temperature, so that you are using more energy. Or you are actually using less energy but paying more for it because of price rises.

Correctly installed insulation should lead to warmer surfaces in winter and therefore less condensation on walls and ceilings. Mould tends to occur where moist air is trapped so great care should be taken to ensure adequate ventilation in roof spaces and using exhaust fans in bathroom/kitchen.

If your house is already damp and prone to a build-up of mould, installing insulation is usually not the solution and it is best to fix damp issues before adding insulation!

Source: Sustainable Energy Authority Victoria

Draft-proofing

Draughts are one of the biggest and cheapest-to-fix sources of energy waste in Australian homes. Gaps around doors, windows, floorboards, skirting boards, exhaust fans and old fireplaces let warm air escape in winter and cool air escape in summer, forcing your heating and cooling systems to work harder than they should.

Sealing these gaps is one of the best ways to cut bills while also making your home more comfortable. 

How much difference does it make?

A typical home can lose a significant share of its heating and cooling energy through gaps and cracks alone so that in many homes this is comparable to leaving a window permanently open. Why pay to heat and cool the outdoors? Sensible draught-proofing goes along with insulation, double glazing or a new heating and cooling system to reduce mould.

Common draught sources

Most homes have multiple points where air leaks in and out. The main culprits include:

  • Around external doors and windows
  • Gaps under doors, particularly external and garage-to-house doors
  • Unused chimneys and open fireplaces
  • Exhaust fans in kitchens and bathrooms
  • Gaps around pipes, cables and vents entering the house
  • Floorboards and skirting boards in older timber homes
  • Cooling ducts and old wall vents

Draught-proofing products and solutions

Depending on the source, draught-proofing can involve:

  • Door and window seals: self-adhesive foam, brush or compression seals fitted around frames
  • Door brushes: simple, inexpensive options for the base of doors
  • Weatherstripping and sealant/caulk: for fixed gaps around frames, skirting boards and architraves
  • Chimney draught stoppers or balloons: for unused fireplaces
  • Exhaust fan and vent seals: self-closing covers or dampers
  • Keyhole and letterbox covers

Many of these are simple, low-cost DIY jobs and most hardware stores stock a range of suitable products.

For a comprehensive range of draught-proofing materials and guides on how to install them, visit the ecoMaster Store.

Getting the balance right

It’s important not to over-seal a home. Some ventilation is necessary for air quality, moisture control and the safe operation of gas appliances. A good draught-proofing assessment will identify which gaps are unwanted draughts and which are needed vents, so you get the comfort and savings without compromising indoor air quality or safety.  Further information is available here

 

Draft-proofing FAQs

Yes, many draught-proofing jobs are straightforward DIY projects. Sealing gaps around doors and windows with good quality products, or using sealant on skirting boards and architraves are all tasks most people can tackle with basic tools. Larger or more complex jobs, such as sealing structural gaps, retrofitting exhaust fan dampers, or treating an unused chimney, are best left to a professional to make sure the work doesn’t create new problems.

A simple way to check is to run your hand slowly around door and window frames, skirting boards, and vents on a windy day to feel for moving air. You can also hold a lit incense stick or a candle near these spots – flickering smoke or flame reveals airflow. For a more thorough assessment, a home energy assessor or draught-proofing professional can carry out a proper inspection, sometimes using a blower door test, to identify every significant leak in the home.

Draught-proofing on its own won’t fix an existing condensation or mould problem, and if it’s done incorrectly it can make things worse by trapping moisture indoors. The key is to seal unwanted draughts while keeping or improving deliberate ventilation, such as exhaust fans and vents in bathrooms, kitchens and laundries, so that moist air still has a way to escape. Done properly, draught-proofing combined with good ventilation habits can actually help reduce condensation by keeping the home’s temperature more stable.

Gas heaters, wood fires and other combustion appliances need a reliable air supply to operate safely and avoid a build-up of carbon monoxide. If your home has these appliances, any draught-proofing work should be carried out carefully, and the appliance’s required ventilation should never be sealed off. This is one of the main reasons it’s worth getting a professional assessment before draught-proofing a home with gas or wood heating, rather than sealing every gap yourself.

Draught-proofing, insulation and double glazing all work together to improve your home’s thermal performance. Sealing gaps stops the constant ex

change of air that undermines the benefits of insulation and double glazing – there’s little point insulating a ceiling or upgrading your windows if warm or cool air is still leaking out around doors and vents. Addressing draughts first means every dollar you later spend on insulation or glazing goes further.

For more information, see the Your Home government site. 

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